Foreign Service Life, Kitui Again and a Train Ride Home
I just returned from training the new volunteers in Kitui followed by several meetings in Nairobi. I had a great time. It felt good to get away, gather my thoughts, and come up with a plan of action to work out some of the issues I’ve been having lately; now I’m in a much better mood. Today is a Muslim religious day and also a national holiday. It shows how much I know about it that I can’t even say which one it is. Regardless, I’m enjoying the time off by catching up on emails and updating this blog before I’m two weeks behind again.
So I forgot to mention in my last post that I stayed at the house of an American embassy employee named Craig. He is married to Zelda, the sister of one of the Peace Corps medical officers. I met Zelda in Mombasa (see photograph with seven-foot Sudanese refugee) and she wanted me to visit her place in Nairobi. Peace Corps volunteers often stay at embassy houses, but this was a first for me. Craig and Zelda live in a huge, beautiful Spanish-style home in an upscale, gated community. They also have a private guard for their home and a personal housekeeper. The contrast between Peace Corps and Foreign Service is remarkable. The children of Foreign Service families go to an elite private international school in Nairobi and are taught to be fearful of the non-wealthy parts of Kenya. For instance, an embassy family went to visit a volunteer friend of mine in a village with their fourteen-year-old son, and boy was absolutely terrified when he accompanied the Peace Corps volunteer to the market. He had been taught it is extremely dangerous in the rural areas, which I think is a real pity for his sake.
Many Peace Corps volunteers end up in the Foreign Service. Craig was in the Peace Corps in Oman in the 1970’s, and most of the other embassy employees I’ve met have had similar Peace Corps experiences. I’ve thought a lot about it, and for now it is not something I want to do. It seems to me that in third-world countries most Foreign Service workers are detached from the reality of life for the average citizen. I’ve spoken to many Foreign Service employees, and I’ve been told that they spend a lot of their time on the “cocktail circuit”, wining and dining with the upper-upper class and key policy makers. I can see the importance of working with the most influential people, but I would feel guilty driving in my shiny new Land Cruiser from a ritzy party to my mansion house in a place where the majority of people have so little. I’ll try not to get too much into politics, but I would also not like having to represent the interests of American foreign policy at this point in time. Maybe in a few years my opinion on this will change, but historically it seems that the U.S. acts in their own self-interests with little regard to the well-being of affected countries. Then again, if it wasn’t for my country I wouldn’t be in the Peace Corps, so I can’t complain too much. Regardless, I do think I prefer working at a grass roots level with the people who need it most.
Anyway, I had a fantastic time with Craig and Zelda. The food was great, and I even had real bacon for breakfast, the first pork product I’ve even eaten in Kenya. Craig is a Chess Wizard and he gave me some pointers while beating me twice without even using his queen, and there was plenty of beer and wine in the fridge, which in retrospect didn’t help my chess game. I’m welcome back anytime, and I really appreciated their hospitality. I look forward to seeing them again and staying at what is basically a five star resort home. Quite a change from Shimanyiro village!
So on to Kitui. Part of my change in mood is because Kitui was such a different experience for me than it was a year ago. I came into the country confused on what to expect, a little overwhelmed, and knowing nothing about Kenyan culture. Looking back I’m surprised by how much I have changed, and being where I was as a trainee really drove that point home. I loved having a chance to share my experiences with the new group, and I walked through some of the most rural areas in Kitui with little trouble communicating in Swahili. I spent Sunday night with my host family and had a lengthy conversation with my host mama that I was never able to do as a trainee. However, training itself hasn’t seemed to change. The trainees, as always, are ready to be done with it (I can relate. I thought my two and a half month stint in Kitui would never end!). The small business development volunteers don’t understand why they have to learn so much about agriculture, and I pointed out that in the rural areas, small businesses almost always involve some type of farming. They seemed disappointed by that, but I guess it wasn’t really what I was expecting as a SED trainee either. The trainees also feel that the technical training is about useless. I had felt the same way, but looking back there was a lot I learned about Kenya just by how inefficient the training was. Plus, the language and cultural training gained in Kitui were extremely valuable, so I suggested they do their best to tough it out for the remaining month, as from there on things should improve. I got to be friends with several volunteers and am looking forward to seeing where they end up.
While I was in Kitui the town was celebrating it’s 50th anniversary of the Catholic church. Many of the missionaries and priests who had been in Kitui during the past fifty years were there, and they ended up staying at the same place (the Kitui Pastoral Center) that Peace Corps placed me while I was talking with the new volunteers. I thought it was pretty funny, as the majority of those staying with me were Irish Catholic Priests. Half of them were named Patrick and they drank heavily. Some stereotypes definitely hold true.
I left early Monday morning from my host family’s house to Nairobi, and had several meetings there. I picked up my registration packet for my marathon next Sunday, learned about another cash crop, an oil-producing plant called jatropa, and met with APDK for a final time to gather the last of the paperwork needed for pricing. I only need a consent form from one more group and I will have everything needed to being the project. Meanwhile, I’m finalizing the proposal should have everything completed soon.
Last night I took the night train from Nairobi to Kisumu. Kenya Railways has recently been bought out by a company in South Africa, so this could be the last time I’m able to take the colonial-era train, as I hear it will be replaced soon. It feels like going back in time riding on it, and I’ll miss the experience. Of course, things are not like they used to be. At one time the train had electricity, what appears to be an intercom system or music, and even air-conditioning. However, blown out bulbs, the rusted fans, and the rotted speaker indicated that they have not been used for quite some time. As of now the only means of lighting is a flashlight given to each room and air conditioning consists of an open window. The meals are served on antique dishes with a worn Kenya Railways logo, the faded remains of colonial elegance. The train is a historical relic from another era and it’s a shame to see it go.
Now it’s time for lunch then I hope to write some emails. I’m looking forward to being back in the states in just two months time!
So I forgot to mention in my last post that I stayed at the house of an American embassy employee named Craig. He is married to Zelda, the sister of one of the Peace Corps medical officers. I met Zelda in Mombasa (see photograph with seven-foot Sudanese refugee) and she wanted me to visit her place in Nairobi. Peace Corps volunteers often stay at embassy houses, but this was a first for me. Craig and Zelda live in a huge, beautiful Spanish-style home in an upscale, gated community. They also have a private guard for their home and a personal housekeeper. The contrast between Peace Corps and Foreign Service is remarkable. The children of Foreign Service families go to an elite private international school in Nairobi and are taught to be fearful of the non-wealthy parts of Kenya. For instance, an embassy family went to visit a volunteer friend of mine in a village with their fourteen-year-old son, and boy was absolutely terrified when he accompanied the Peace Corps volunteer to the market. He had been taught it is extremely dangerous in the rural areas, which I think is a real pity for his sake.
Many Peace Corps volunteers end up in the Foreign Service. Craig was in the Peace Corps in Oman in the 1970’s, and most of the other embassy employees I’ve met have had similar Peace Corps experiences. I’ve thought a lot about it, and for now it is not something I want to do. It seems to me that in third-world countries most Foreign Service workers are detached from the reality of life for the average citizen. I’ve spoken to many Foreign Service employees, and I’ve been told that they spend a lot of their time on the “cocktail circuit”, wining and dining with the upper-upper class and key policy makers. I can see the importance of working with the most influential people, but I would feel guilty driving in my shiny new Land Cruiser from a ritzy party to my mansion house in a place where the majority of people have so little. I’ll try not to get too much into politics, but I would also not like having to represent the interests of American foreign policy at this point in time. Maybe in a few years my opinion on this will change, but historically it seems that the U.S. acts in their own self-interests with little regard to the well-being of affected countries. Then again, if it wasn’t for my country I wouldn’t be in the Peace Corps, so I can’t complain too much. Regardless, I do think I prefer working at a grass roots level with the people who need it most.
Anyway, I had a fantastic time with Craig and Zelda. The food was great, and I even had real bacon for breakfast, the first pork product I’ve even eaten in Kenya. Craig is a Chess Wizard and he gave me some pointers while beating me twice without even using his queen, and there was plenty of beer and wine in the fridge, which in retrospect didn’t help my chess game. I’m welcome back anytime, and I really appreciated their hospitality. I look forward to seeing them again and staying at what is basically a five star resort home. Quite a change from Shimanyiro village!
So on to Kitui. Part of my change in mood is because Kitui was such a different experience for me than it was a year ago. I came into the country confused on what to expect, a little overwhelmed, and knowing nothing about Kenyan culture. Looking back I’m surprised by how much I have changed, and being where I was as a trainee really drove that point home. I loved having a chance to share my experiences with the new group, and I walked through some of the most rural areas in Kitui with little trouble communicating in Swahili. I spent Sunday night with my host family and had a lengthy conversation with my host mama that I was never able to do as a trainee. However, training itself hasn’t seemed to change. The trainees, as always, are ready to be done with it (I can relate. I thought my two and a half month stint in Kitui would never end!). The small business development volunteers don’t understand why they have to learn so much about agriculture, and I pointed out that in the rural areas, small businesses almost always involve some type of farming. They seemed disappointed by that, but I guess it wasn’t really what I was expecting as a SED trainee either. The trainees also feel that the technical training is about useless. I had felt the same way, but looking back there was a lot I learned about Kenya just by how inefficient the training was. Plus, the language and cultural training gained in Kitui were extremely valuable, so I suggested they do their best to tough it out for the remaining month, as from there on things should improve. I got to be friends with several volunteers and am looking forward to seeing where they end up.
While I was in Kitui the town was celebrating it’s 50th anniversary of the Catholic church. Many of the missionaries and priests who had been in Kitui during the past fifty years were there, and they ended up staying at the same place (the Kitui Pastoral Center) that Peace Corps placed me while I was talking with the new volunteers. I thought it was pretty funny, as the majority of those staying with me were Irish Catholic Priests. Half of them were named Patrick and they drank heavily. Some stereotypes definitely hold true.
I left early Monday morning from my host family’s house to Nairobi, and had several meetings there. I picked up my registration packet for my marathon next Sunday, learned about another cash crop, an oil-producing plant called jatropa, and met with APDK for a final time to gather the last of the paperwork needed for pricing. I only need a consent form from one more group and I will have everything needed to being the project. Meanwhile, I’m finalizing the proposal should have everything completed soon.
Last night I took the night train from Nairobi to Kisumu. Kenya Railways has recently been bought out by a company in South Africa, so this could be the last time I’m able to take the colonial-era train, as I hear it will be replaced soon. It feels like going back in time riding on it, and I’ll miss the experience. Of course, things are not like they used to be. At one time the train had electricity, what appears to be an intercom system or music, and even air-conditioning. However, blown out bulbs, the rusted fans, and the rotted speaker indicated that they have not been used for quite some time. As of now the only means of lighting is a flashlight given to each room and air conditioning consists of an open window. The meals are served on antique dishes with a worn Kenya Railways logo, the faded remains of colonial elegance. The train is a historical relic from another era and it’s a shame to see it go.
Now it’s time for lunch then I hope to write some emails. I’m looking forward to being back in the states in just two months time!
posted by KenyaJoe at 5:00 AM
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