Saturday, February 10, 2007

Christmas in America

My February 1st resolution is to catch up on my blog. Things have been running pretty much nonstop since mid-December but I'll be relaxing a bit over the next few days and finally have some down time. Right now it's a Saturday morning and I'm sitting on a breezy beach with a notebook and pen. I'm starting to feel pretty useless and figure it's as good a time as any to bring things up to date.

After 15 months in Kenya I had an opportunity to spend my Christmas holidays in Alabama. Thanks to my wonderful parents, who covered the airfare, I managed to catch up with friends and family, recharge my batteries, and get a small sample of how Kenya has changed my perceptions of things back home.

Travel, as always, was an ordeal. The notoriously unreliable train to Nairobi broke down and arrived three hours late. Later, the flight was delayed, then a passenger on board became critically ill, and we had to make an emergency landing in the Sudan. The detour into a war zone only lasted a few hours and remarkably I made it through the first leg of the flight to Amsterdam with a six hour layover still remaining.

I love Holland, and with so much time between flights I decided to leave the airport and walk through the city. I purchased a train ticket from the airport with a departure time of 8:03 and an arrival time in Amsterdam at 8:24, and was amazed to watch the second hand on the clock strike 8:03 on the dot as the train pulled into the station and opened the doors. Then, the train arrived in the city center within a few seconds of exactly 8:24. Western European transport is such a contrast from Kenya!

I spent several hours walking through the city streets of downtown Amsterdam enjoying the brisk air, the historic stone statues and buildings, and the stark contrasts between Dutch and Kenyan culture. Even though it was nine in the morning, I drank a cold Guinness, an opportunity I could not afford to miss, as they are always best when served in Europe, properly poured and on tap. I also grabbed my favorite Dutch junk food: french fries and mayonnaise. Oh, and I ate a lemon cream pastry too. I admittedly had a difficult time showing any degree of self-control the entire time I was home, something I need to do a better job with next time around.

Finally, after another connection, a delayed flight into Huntsville, and a third full day's worth of travel, I made it home. Regardless, the travel was well worth it. My two weeks in the states were the most fun I've had in a long time. Basically, it was a nonstop party with family and friends. The problems I've been facing in Kenya were starting to wear me down, and getting away for a few weeks worked wonders for my sanity and sense of purpose here.

The best part about being home was the opportunity to see the majority of my close friends and family, and my Christmas was the best I can remember since I was given my first Nintendo. For Christmas Eve, my grandmother cooked a delicious southern style holiday dinner. It was amazing and more than made up for my less than stellar Thanksgiving meal. Actually, everything I ate back home was good. I pretty much binged on all the foods I had been craving over the past year: Mexican, Italian, Thai, sugary cereal, pizza…the list goes on and on. One thing I definitely noticed is that the food in the states is heavy and rich in contrast to Kenyan village food. Everything I eat here is farm fresh, organic, and chemical free. The abrupt change in diet (as well as my lack of any kind of self control) left my stomach uneasy and me feeling a bit off-kilter the entire time I was home. I gained almost five pounds in two weeks, and made a promise to myself that I will be more careful in a year's time, when I won't be returning to Kenya to burn everything off again.

So in to Christmas: On the 23rd there was a Christmas party for my Dad's side of the family. Then, on Christmas Eve I went to three church services, a new personal record for one day. My mom had a morning and evening service and then I ran into an old friend who surprised me with a visit. He wanted to go to my previous church for the midnight mass and I decided to go along. I've never felt comfortable at a church in Kenya, as I have the uneasy feeling that I am seen as a source of funding from the entire congregation. Also, from my experiences the majority of the pastors and priests here are corrupt and manipulative. It was a refreshing change to go to a service where there were no expectations for me from the congregation and I actually felt close to God.

On Christmas Day we celebrated with my immediate family, then the day after Christmas we had a huge Christmas party for my mom’s side of the family. Sometimes I find the Christmas season a bit overwhelming, but I thoroughly enjoyed myself this year. Part of it was due to missing Christmas at home the previous year, and part of it was from my experiences in Kenya. It was difficult to appreciate just how fortunate I was until I had a chance to move away for awhile. I have a great family and a comfortable lifestyle without ever having to worry about a lack of necessities. Being in Kenya for more than a year goes a long way towards not taking that for granted.

The same newfound appreciation goes for friends as well. Catching up with them was a highpoint of my time back home. So much has changed. Some of my friends are married, some are engaged, and some have moved or changed jobs. Regardless, I was surprised to see that within a few minutes time it seemed as though I had never left. It was great to just spend some time with my guy friends especially. I’ve made some good friends in Kenya, but around Kakamega almost all the volunteers are women. It was a welcome change to relax with guys I’ve known for years and talk about just about anything.

I also had several great parties back in the states. My parents really went all out and catered a party with help from their friends. The food, as usual, was fantastic and most of my friends and much of my family managed to stop by. I had a great time seeing everyone and catching up with all the latest while sharing stories from Kenya. A few days later I had the best New Year’s party I can remember. My buddy Eric made a huge pot of jambalaya and everyone one else brought a potluck side dish. My parents graciously gave up the house and stayed up all night with my friends eating and talking over bottles of beer and champagne.

Another great part of being home was a visit from my friend Whitney from Dallas. Last August I helped her manage the eight-hour matatu ride from an orphanage in Migori to Kitale, a town near my village. We have kept in touch since and she agreed to come visit me in the states while I was home. She had good time meeting my family and friends and is planning to visit me in Kenya again in June.

Beyond parties, family, and friends I also had an interview with the Huntsville Times newspaper and a visit to ADTRAN, the company I worked at before I left for Kenya. Things there seemed to be about the same as when I left, but it was great to catch up with everyone. I enjoyed my old job but am also happy to have a chance to be doing something a bit different.

So all in all my time in the states was fantastic. When I was home I actually convinced myself that I wanted to return to work in Hunstville post-Peace Corps. It’s so nice to be close to friends and family. Now, one month later, I’m back to the swing of things in Kenya. Despite the setbacks and occasional loneliness I really do love it here. I also realize that I went to the states as a tourist. I didn’t have to worry about debt or deadlines, or long work hours and minimal vacation time. I’m worried that going back to a corporate job and the routine of life in the states will be an even more difficult transition than coming here. At the same time maintaining this kind of lifestyle means being far away from my family and closest friends. I came into Peace Corps thinking it would help me better define who I am and make sense of my life. In a way it has but at the same time it appears to be creating more choices and questions than answers.